3 min readYou don’t have to wait until spring to start planning next year’s flowers. Instead, put in the effort now, before winter hits. This practice, known as “garden banking,” takes some patience, but professional gardeners agree that it’s well worth it.
“It’s about making small investments in your garden and lawn now that pay you back in the spring,” says Jim Fucetola, horticultural expert and founder of Earthwise Seed Company.
The idea is simple: Improve the soil, give plants a head start, and address problems before the spring rush. And fortunately, you don’t need a big yard to get started.
“Even one pot on a doorstep counts. Plant something to look forward to, and enjoy the moment of tending it now,” says Donna Letier, cofounder and CEO of Gardenuity.
So, if you’re willing to practice a little delayed gratification, here’s how to incorporate garden banking into your fall routine.
Plant Spring-Flowering Bulbs
Thanks to the cooler conditions, fall is the ideal time to plant bulbs. Tulips, daffodils, crocuses, alliums, and hyacinths, for example, can grow into beautiful blooms come spring.
“Plant them in well-drained soil and follow the recommended depth for each bulb,” explains Jessica Mercer, horticulturist at Plant Addicts.
Overseed Thin Areas If You Have Cool-Season Grass
Early fall is a good opportunity to overseed fescue and other cool-season grasses, as long as the seedlings have time to establish before the freezing weather arrives. Pick the right grass seeds for your conditions, create good seed-to-soil contact, and keep the seedbed consistently moist during germination.
“If you’re somewhere with warm-season grass, this is usually a task for late spring or early summer,” says Fucetola.
Make a “Plant Lasagna” in a Container
If you’re hoping for a colorful spring display, take advantage of fall.
“Layer bulbs in a pot like a lasagna: big, late bloomers like tulips on the bottom, daffodils in the middle, and small early bloomers like crocus and grape hyacinth on top. Pot soil in between each layer,” explains Letier.
You'll get weeks of back-to-back color from a single pot in spring.
“Top it with pansies or violas now, and it's beautiful all winter too. If you’re in a colder climate, tuck the pot against the house or in an unheated garage, since containers freeze faster than the ground,” adds Letier.
Remove Diseased Foliage
This is particularly important if you’ve had problems with powdery mildew, leaf spot, or other pathogens. Removing diseased leaves reduces infected material that can carry disease into the spring.
“It’s a good idea to leave the healthy stems and seed heads for wildlife,” says Mercer.
Bank Your Leaves
Move thick, wet leaf piles off the lawn so they don’t smother the grass.
“Healthy leaves can become mulch in suitable garden beds or material for a compost pile. Keep them from burying plant crowns or piling against trunks,” says Fucetola.
This allows you to retain useful organic matter and provide winter shelter for beneficial insects.
Address Compacted Soil
If your lawn is struggling in heavily traveled areas, compacted soil may be part of the problem. Core aeration can help water and air reach the roots and, in turn, improve conditions for overseeding.
“Do it while the grass is actively growing and can recover: typically early fall for cool-season lawns and late spring or summer for warm-season lawns,” explains Fucetola.
Take Notes
This fall, photograph thin lawn areas, note where water collects, and write down which plants struggled with shade, drought, or foot traffic. Use those observations to choose better-suited plants and seeds for next season.
“If the same lawn patch fails every year, another bag of seed won’t solve a mismatch between the plant and the site,” says Fucetola.
